(Note: I’ve updated this post in August, 2019, after climbing Mt Flume once again. I’ve recently completed ascending all 48 4000-footers, and am going up a few again, in different seasons…)
I began a new journey two months ago, tracing two long arcs:
— Climbing all 48 mountains in New Hampshire that over 4000 feet tall, what is called “peak-bagging” by local climbers. I’m describing, in words and images, the ascent of each of these peaks – mostly done solo, but sometimes with a friend or two;
— Working in international development during the MDG era: what it was like in the sector as it boomed, and evolved, from the response to the Ethiopian crisis in the mid-1980’s through to the conclusion of the Millennium Development Goals in 2015.
To skip the description of my ascent of Mt Flume, and go directly to the construction of a Cretan Sail windmill in San Rafael, click here.
The Climb – Mt Flume
The fourth of the 48 peaks that I summited was Mt Flume, on 3 July 2016. It was a challenging climb because of the very steep scramble near the top. Eric and I continued from Flume to the top of Mt Liberty (which will be the subject of my next blog entry), so along with being a tough climb, it was also a long day.
From the parking lot, we headed north along the highway before turning east on Liberty Spring Trail. Soon we came to the junction with Flume Slide Trail, which we took.
The hike was pleasant at first, a typical White Mountain forest walk, but the last section was very challenging – very steep granite face, quite wet and slippery. Holding onto narrow, wet handholds with long drops below – quite nerve wracking.
Here are two photos from the climb: one at lunch, the other at the top (these two images courtesy of Eric Smith):
Eric hurt his shoulder pretty badly on the way up Flume. It’s a very steep ascent, and you end up hanging on the enormous, nearly-vertical granite boulders, and I think he dropped down a bit and put most of his weight on that shoulder. This would bother him for many months.
But we got there: I’m at the top of Flume here; that’s Mt Liberty on the right side of the photo – more about that in my next blog.
I was happy to have that walking stick, though an ice-axe would have been better! Not that there was any ice or snow, but holding on to rock with the pick end of an ice-axe would have been very helpful and comforting!
I climbed Mt Flume again, three years later. For a short description of that climb, skipping my description how we built a windmill for San Rafael, click here.
A Windmill for San Rafael
I’m writing twice about the work we did in the community of San Rafael in 1985-86. Last time I described the context of that indigenous, Cañari community, the origins of the potable-water system we built, focusing mainly on the design and construction of the first ferrocement water-storage tank built in Ecuador.
I mentioned in that blog that our work in San Rafael was very important for me, because of the situation in that community, which was suffering an outbreak of typhoid* when I first visited: encountering small coffins being taken out of the community, through the fog, was an indication of the situation there. Important also because of what I learned in designing and working to help build that innovative water system. And important because of where it led me, personally and professionally, connections I made during that time that led me into a career in international development and social justice.
When I returned to the US after completing my two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Azogues, I spent some time writing and publishing two journal articles about the San Rafael water project – both articles are available by clicking below:
— one article was an overview of the system in “Waterlines”, a journal devoted to appropriate technologies for water supply and sanitation. I’ve uploaded a copy of that article, here: Waterlines;
— and another article describing the design and construction of the ferrocement tank in some technical detail, in “Journal of Ferrocement” published by the International Ferrocement Information Center. That article is here: Journal of Ferrocement – A 50m3 Water Reservoir for Cañar Ecuador – MCPEAK
My focus this time is on the wind turbine we built to pump water for San Rafael’s system.
As I mentioned last time, there were no sources of surface water above the community, so we couldn’t build a simple gravity-flow system. But we did find reliable water a few meters below ground, above the community. That was lucky.
So we began construction in mid-1985, digging a well by hand, and lining it with simple concrete rings that we poured at the site. Here are a few images of that process:
(If you look closely, in the last of the photos above you can see the location of the water storage tank downhill from where we were pouring the reinforcement rings at the windmill site.)
This process worked well. We formed the rings with the same tin sheets that we would soon use for the tank formwork. Once the rings were cured, and the 6m-deep well dug by hand, we carefully lowered each ring into place.
We needed a pump to get the water out of that well, of course. There was no electricity in San Rafael, and the community wouldn’t be able to afford fuel for a gasoline or diesel pump (but, see below for how that turned out!).
Amazingly, I was able to source 11 years of wind data from a nearby meteorological station, confirming that the use of wind power to pump water for San Rafael’s system was feasible. So, I would design, and we would build, a wind turbine on top of the well…
How to design the wind turbinel? As I mentioned last time, Peace Corps had initially indicated that I wasn’t qualified for assignment to IEOS because I was a Mechanical, rather than a Civil, Engineer. Thanks to the easy-going Peace Corps Country Director of the time, Ned Benner, in the end I was welcomed, and bureaucratic requirements were finessed.
Not being a Civil Engineer wasn’t a problem, and as I described earlier it even enabled me to think differently about how to build water-storage tanks. But designing a wind turbine – that was a task for a Mechanical Engineer! So I was well-prepared.
I no longer recall where I found it, but somehow I got my hands on “How to build a Cretan sail wind pump for use in low-speed wind conditions,” from IT Publications in London (1979). Maybe there was a copy in the Peace Corps office in Quito?
Given the wind records, and my estimate of the required water flow for the community, I chose a diameter of 6m for the wind turbine; the metal tubing we used for the spokes of the wind wheel were 3m long, so that was convenient. To simplify the design, I chose to have the turbine operate downwind of the tower, which meant that no tail would be required: rather, I designed a counterweight to balance moments across the bearing assembly, so the wind would push the structure around and orient it correctly.
Here are some images of the construction and installation of the Cretan Sail windmill:
We welded the tower in sections which would be bolted together, enabling easy transport. And we assembled the 6m-diameter wind wheel at a nearby shop in Biblian, close to Azogues. There was a factory near Azogues that manufactured heavy canvas covers for truck beds, and I arranged for them to prepare the sails for the windmill – a set of large sails for low-wind conditions, and a set of smaller sails for higher-wind days.
Transporting the wind wheel to San Rafael, along the Pan-American Highway, was tricky – as can be seen in one of the images above, it was large! And, unlike the tower, we couldn’t build it in sections. So we had to sneak it under many electrical and telephone wires along the way, and even a few water pipes that had been hung informally across the road. Luckily there were no underpasses between Azogues and Cañar!
We built a small hut for the chlorination plant, and trained a couple members of the community to manage that, and to maintain the windmill.
Once the wind turbine was installed, we tested it over several weeks. When the wind turbine caught the wind, it was a dramatic sight: the wind wheel turned dramatically downwind of the tower and caught the wind, accelerating quickly and impressively. It pumped a lot of water and took your breath away when it accelerated!
Fitting the sails was fairly simple: the caretaker simply tied the wind wheel to the tower, and then swapped to sails that were suitable for the wind conditions – small sails for high-wind conditions, and larger ones when the wind was light.
But, in contrast to the ferrocement tank, the Cretan Sail wind turbinel we built for San Rafael wasn’t so successful. There were two main problems. Firstly, my design was not really robust enough. It pumped water very well in a range of conditions, but there were some very severe wind gusts in the area. A few days after installation, a couple of welds in the wind wheel broke in heavy wind, and we had to bring welding equipment up to the site to repair it.
And although climbing up the tower to change sails was simple, it was a bit scary; like climbing up Mt Flume, it was steep and nerve-wracking! When the wind wheel was turning, especially, even though there was no danger of being struck by the wind wheel, climbing up the tower was still a daunting task. I think that the community caretakers we had trained to maintain the system, including the windmill, were understandably nervous about changing sails when the wind was up.
A few weeks after the San Rafael system was inaugurated, I finished my Peace Corps service. We built two more ferrocement tanks in those weeks, using the manual I had written. I don’t think that the wind turbine lasted very long after I left; a weld or two probably broke, and that was that.
A couple of years later, when Jean and I were living in Colombia and I was working for Plan International (more on that in upcoming blogs!), we visited Plan Cañar, and I made sure we went to San Rafael. The ferrocement tank was in great shape, working perfectly. The windmill, however, was abandoned, and the community had bought a diesel pump with support from Plan. So, in fact, the water system was working well, supplying water.
Here is a photo of the wind turbine area, taken during our visit from Colombia:
Still in good shape at that point!
We could see that construction of a large irrigation canal was nearing the area where we had built the wind turbine and water-storage tank. Local community members told me that they had gotten permission to take water from that canal for their water system. So, in the end, the potable water system for San Rafael was successful!
I certainly learned a lot from that community. Introducing innovations into a community like that was tricky and, in particular, issues of maintenance needed to be thought through very carefully. There were cultural aspects of the process of introducing new technology that I learned about – the wind turbine, for example, was a challenge from that point of view. Who knows what the Cañari people living in San Rafael made of it!
So the Cretan Sail wind turbine failed. The ferrocement tank was a big success, and in the future I would come across many water-storage tanks built from that design in many parts of South America, even in Albania (where Annuska Heldring would serve as Country Director for Plan) and Guatemala (quite recently.) The particular section of a sphere that I chose for the cupola was very recognizable!
Most importantly, the community of San Rafael had water. Some day I would love to visit, now a bit over 30 years later, to see how they have progressed.
Second Climb, Second Season
I climbed Mt Flume again on 14 August 2019, after having completed all 48 of New Hampshire’s 4000-footers late in 2018. This time I ascended from the east, from Lincoln Woods, and once again did both Mt Flume and Mt Liberty. Here most of the July 2016 hike described above is shown in blue, while the August 2019 climb, from Lincoln Woods, is in black:
I have been doing a second round of 4000-footers, in different seasons and (when possible) using different routes. Last time, Eric and I had gone up Flume Slide Trail, which is very steep, a bit dangerous to descend even in the best of times (like this day). So I decided to climb Mt Flume from the east, up Osseo Trail; and then, when (if!) I succeeded in climbing Mt Liberty, I would retrace my steps.
I left the parking lot at Lincoln Woods just after 9:30am, having driven up from Durham that morning. It was a beautiful day for hiking – mostly sunny and cool. A few insects, so I applied repellant.
It took me a bit under 30 minutes to walk up the wide, straight section of the Lincoln Woods Trail to the junction with the Osseo Trail:
The Osseo Trail ascends moderately for some time, until it becomes much steeper about half-way up Mt Flume. There are a few fairly-long sections where wooden steps have been placed, just before a “Downlook” where the view towards the Bonds is spectacular:
Osseo Trail was pretty quiet that morning: I think I saw only two small groups of happy hikers.
I arrived at the summit of Mt Flume at 12:30pm, and the junction with the Flume Slide Trail, which Eric and I had climbed three years earlier, having climbed for about 3 hours. The views were fantastic, looking north towards Mt Liberty, Mt Lincoln, Mt Lafayette, and Franconia Notch:
Compared with the 2016 ascent, in which Eric and I climbed up Flume Slide, this way of getting to the top of Mt Flume was easier. Flume Slide Trail is famously steep, and more crowded. So, in comparison, climbing from Lincoln Woods was quiet and less challenging, and the view from that “Downlook” was pretty special.
I decided to continue towards the top of Mt Liberty to have lunch. See the rest of that great climb here.
Here are links to all the blogs in this series. There are 48 articles, including this one, each one about climbing one of New Hampshire’s 4000-footers, and also reflecting on a career in international development:
- Mt Tom (1) – A New Journey;
- Mt Field (2) – Potable Water in Ecuador;
- Mt Moosilauke (3) – A Water System for San Rafael (part 1);
- Mt Flume (4) – A Windmill for San Rafael (part 2);
- Mt Liberty (5) – Onward to Colombia, Plan International in Tuluá;
- Mt Osceola (6) – Three Years in Tuluá;
- East Osceola (7) – Potable Water for Cienegueta;
- Mt Passaconaway (8) – The South America Regional Office;
- Mt Whiteface (9) – Empowerment!;
- North Tripyramid (10) – Total Quality Management for Plan International;
- Middle Tripyramid (11) – To International Headquarters!;
- North Kinsman (12) – Fighting Fragmentation and Building Unity: New Program Goals and Principles for Plan International;
- South Kinsman (13) – A Growth Plan for Plan International;
- Mt Carrigain (14) – Restructuring Plan International;
- Mt Eisenhower (15) – A Guest Blog: Max van der Schalk Reflects on 5 Years at Plan’s International Headquarters;
- Mt Pierce (16) – Four Years At Plan’s International Headquarters;
- Mt Hancock (17) – Hanoi, 1998;
- South Hancock (18) – Plan’s Team in Viet Nam (1998-2002);
- Wildcat “D” Peak (19) – Plan’s Work in Viet Nam;
- Wildcat Mountain (20) – The Large Grants Implementation Unit in Viet Nam;
- Middle Carter (21) – Things Had Changed;
- South Carter (22) – CCF’s Organizational Capacity Assessment and Child Poverty Study;
- Mt Tecumseh (23) – Researching CCF’s New Program Approach;
- Mt Jackson (24) – The Bright Futures Program Approach;
- Mt Isolation (25) – Pilot Testing Bright Futures;
- Mt Lincoln (26) – Change, Strategy and Culture: Bright Futures 101;
- Mt Lafayette (27) – Collective Action for Human Rights;
- Mt Willey (28) – Navigating Principle and Pragmatism, Working With UUSC’s Bargaining Unit;
- Cannon Mountain (29) – UUSC Just Democracy;
- Carter Dome (30) – A (Failed) Merger In the INGO Sector (1997);
- Galehead Mountain (31) – What We Think About When We Think About A Great INGO Program;
- Mt Garfield (32) – Building Strong INGO Teams: Clarity, Trust, Inspiration;
- Mt Moriah (33) – Putting It All Together (Part 1): the ChildFund Australia International Program Team;
- Owls’ Head (34) – Putting It All Together (Part 2): ChildFund Australia’s Theory of Change;
- Bondcliff (35) – ChildFund Australia’s Development Effectiveness System;
- West Bond (36) – “Case Studies” in ChildFund Australia’s Development Effectiveness System;
- Mt Bond (37) – Impact Assessment in ChildFund Australia’s Development Effectiveness System;
- Mt Waumbek (38) – “Building the Power of Poor People and Poor Children…”
- Mt Cabot (39) – ChildFund Australia’s Teams In Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Papua New Guinea, and Viet Nam;
- North Twin (40) – Value for Money;
- South Twin (41) – Disaster Risk Reduction;
- Mt Hale (42) – A “Golden Age” for INGOs Has Passed. What Next?;
- Zealand Mountain (43) – Conflict: Five Key Insights;
- Mt Washington (44) – Understanding Conflicts;
- Mt Monroe (45) – Culture, Conflict;
- Mt Madison (46) – A Case Study Of Culture And Conflict;
- Mt Adams (47) – As I Near the End of This Journey;
- Mt Jefferson (48) – A Journey Ends…
- I got it wrong in my last blog – it was typhoid, not cholera. Still…